Erin Fetherston Fall 2009 Runway

By far my most favorite show this fashion week was the Erin Fetherston show last evening, The Living Doll. It was a complete production from start to finish: the music (a rock and roll version of Prokofiev), the lighting (plain quilted backdrop that set the background for the “living doll” stage); and the makeup and hair.

Although I did not get an opportunity to go backstage, I did see the innovative and creative hairstyles (crimped hair, tucked into a bun, with flyaways). Yes, the models definitely looked like living dolls, in their teacup skirts, detailed lace stockings, sheer chiffon blouses with crystal buttons, and lace detailing.

The runway was also flawlessly executed. There are so many shows I’ve gone to where the music started in fits and stops and the cohesiveness was lost. But Erin’s show was like a Disney production.

The hair was doll like in that it was very detailed (think layers and layers of crimping) and then tucked into a bun but with strands left loose. This hairstyle actually contrasts with the clothes, which are superbly put together like a Chanel show, or an American Girl exhibit.

The makeup was done by for Sebastien Tardif for Bobbi Brown; and the hair by Lyndell Mansfield for Bumble & Bumble.

The initial pieces were very military inspired. Numbers like the Double Breasted Marching Jacket in Cranberry Silk-Fil Jacquard and jewel tweed bow belt made me a little uneasy, because I had expected to see a very dolled up, girly show and I was fearful that Ms. Fetherston had embraced the dark side. A little harsh to start with, but as the lineup continued, I was thrilled to see fluid, more feminine numbers like the Black Pointelle Jacquard Cap Sleeve Shift over Doll Blouse in Ivory Lattice Chiffon.

The second half of the show was much more fluid, magical and showcased Fetherston’s versatility. Cute animal masks were worn as headpieces and added flair and balance to dreamy chiffon swingskirts and tulle skirts. The accessories were stunning and crystal embellishments stood out in the form of dainty buttons or large studded bows.

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Verrier Fall 2009 Backstage Fashion Week Runway

Verrier’s makeup was by far one of the most interesting. Maki, the stylist for MAC Cosmetics, says, “It is a French girl, very quiet, as though she did her own makeup and hair.” He mixed a style of punk and gothic by applying liner across the eyelid and erasing a bit in the middle. Colors used were MAC Blooz pencil that created a lovely dark blue color, and a shimmery blue eyeshadow called “Blue Flame.” No mascara was used at all.

There was a very natural shine on the skin and nothing on the lips except a bit of lip balm. The result? A very clean, inspired eye and wholesome skin. “The clothes are very beautiful and had touches of coral and blue,” says Maki. “The makeup complements this.”

Stylist Dai for Cutler who did the hair says, “The girls look like they haven’t had a lot done to the hair. The hair looks really pretty when it’s “natural.”” He used Specialist Treatment Protectant Spray on the hair to give it texture.

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Thuy Fall 2009 Backstage Fashion Week Runway

Wow, was I excited to meet designer Thuy! Here she is:

Her Fall 2009 collection is very futuristic and she calls it a bit more “messy” than her previous collections.
The makeup backstage, by MAC Cosmetics, reflected this edginess and futuristic vibe. MAC Makeup artist Romero Jennings says, “The look is very futuristic and it complements the clothes because it is organic with graphic lines.”

Jennings used gel eyeliner in Blacktrack, Fleshpot for the lips, Sculpted Shape and Highlight in Bone Beige for the blush, and no mascara for the eyes.

A very natural eyeshadow in Wedge was used on the eyelids. When asked if this was a “Runway to Reality,” and wearable, Jennings said, “Absolutely…this is a look that women can do themselves.”

 

 The texurized hair was done by AVON. Lead stylists were Anthony Barrow and Alan Ruiez. The hairstyle changed at the very last minute and it was “piecey” before but then they decided to do a messy, unfinished twist. Ruiez used “Volumizing Mousse” to create a thick texture for the hair, and finished the hair with Finish It! Hair Spray. After putting plenty of pins in the hair and creating an updo, Ruiez left the hair unfinished and spikey….just like a futurist would do!

 

The stunning nails in a deep burgundy color called “Soul Men” was done by Essie.

 

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Monarchy Collection Fall 2009 Runway

The Monarchy Collection Fall 2009 was a very wearable affair with the highlights on black, grey, brown and touches of plaid. The makeup, done by leading MAC Makeup artist Gregory Arlt, showcased a lovely subdued face and a modern take on the smokey eye. Click here to see a great post about backstage at Monarchy.

The collection itself was a feast of plaid capes, high waisted trousers, high collar blouses, blazers, suits and trench coats. In short: luxe retail. Barneys, we imagine, would scoop this up in a matter of seconds, and we can really see the streets of New York alive with style and wearing Monarchy.

Numbers like the Olive Military Trench, Cream Cowl Neck Button Up and Olive Denim were some of the delicious numbers that strutted down the catwalk. I would have really liked to see more color in the collection, though. Which proves that once again, Fall is shaping up to be a sombre affair.

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Barbie Fall 2009 Runway

The hottest ticket of the day was Barbie Fall 2009 show, who appealed to adults and children alike. The clothes were West Palm Beach, 1950s mom, hot swimsuit and also a lovely appearance by “Ken.”

The makeup was as colorful as Dame Edna, with feathered eyebrows, pink blush and pink lips. In short, America’s darling is a doll.

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Rachel Roy Fall 2009- Hair by Frederic Fekkai

Andre Rodman, lead stylist for Frédéric Fekkai channels Linda Evangelista’s signature style with his throw back to nineties mod at the Rachel Roy show this year. The look of Rachel Roy is more austere than previous years so he wanted to compliment her collection with a sleek and serious hairstyle. Rodman created smooth bob-cut wigs, with a severe side part and chose stark hair colors of either platinum blonde or black – nothing in-between.

PRODUCTS USED:

Fekkai Coiff™ Contrôle Ironless Straightening Balm: A miraculous, non-chemical balm that provides weightless straightening while you blow dry.  This creamy balm contains special featherweight silicones for sleek, chic hair that resists frizz and fly-aways.  Delivers a salon blow-out, sans stylist.  SRP: $25.00, 3.4 fl. oz. Bottle

Fekkai Glossing Sheer Shine Mist, an ultra-lightweight mist infused with pure olive oil extract, achieving a long-lasting, dazzling finish anytime anywhere is effortless. Joining the top-selling Fekkai Glossing Line, this mist immediately de-frizzes, adds shine and tames fly-aways in seconds, leaving hair sleek and silky. Now, instant shine means instant gratification.  In addition, Glossing Sheer Shine Mist is suitable for all hair types and helps lock in moisture all day, keeping strands conditioned and soft. SRP: $22.50, 5 oz

Fekkai Sheer Hold Spray: For a manageable, sheak, shiny, hold.  This breakthrough hair spray formula is the sheerest of its kind and is being celebrated for its fast acting hold that enables stylists to create looks that last. Sheer Hold Hairspray has an ultra-fine mist that sets the style, adding shine without feeling wet or heavy SRP: $23.00, 5.8 fl. oz. Bottle

www.fekkai.com

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Ohne Title Fall 2009 Backstage Runway

Backstage at Ohne Titel, there was a lot of makeup and hair activity by MAC Cosmetics and Bumble and Bumble, respectively. The entire look is “sans makeup” with powder on the cheeks, powder around the eyes, a very natural lip color. “I used whatever color was naturally on the model,” says a MAC makeup artist. “There were no set products.”

As for the hair, there was a lot of texture going into the loose undefined style that Jimmy Paul for Bumble & Bumble chose to create. “The designer wanted me to keep the hair away from the face,” says Paul. “So I created hair full of texture. First we put the hair up into a “zulu” knot. We left that for about 20 minutes or so, and created a very defined and precise middle part.” He used Surf Spray by Bumble & Bumble to create that thick coarse texture.

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Heart Truth Red Dress Fall 2009 Fashion Week Runway

Another season and yet another star-studded Heart Truth Fall 2009 Red Carpet. This year, we saw Kristi Yamaguchi, Tori Spelling, Nastia Liukin,  Katie Couric, Amanda Bynes, Amanda Beard, Phylicia Rashad all strut the catwalk wearing different shades of pure crimson.

Yes, Amanda Bynes’ dress was really itsy bitsy short, like she was wearing a bikini. Tori Spelling stumbled slightly in her Betsey Johnson dress.  I was overjoyed to see gymnast Nastia Liukin come down the catwalk in Max Azria, and so did swim champ Amanda Beard.

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Georges Chakra Backstage Fall 2009 Runway

Georges Chakra has been known for his rich, shimmery textured clothes, and backstage, the makeup for the Fall 2009 show showed us what a perfect contrast the makeup and hair was. Gregory Arlt from MAC Cosmetics conceived the makeup for the show: think beautiful, clear skin; a clear smokey eye; glowing blush; and soft lips.

“I blended two colors for the lips,” Arlt says. ” The Vintage Rose and the Creamsheen in Boybait.” Of course eyeliner is a must and all the models sported blush, which was a mix of two shades as well: “Lillicent” and “Lady Blush.”

According to Arlt, “Georges Chakra is really the red carpet event of Bryant Park…he uses some really amazing fabrics.” As for the makeup, he says, ” I wanted the skin to have a mobility to it.”

The hair was done by Bumble and Bumble. Stylist Amy Farid says,”The look is an alternate version of the chignon. We start with a side parting, almost like a beret.” She used the best selling “Surf Spray” by Bumble & Bumble to give the hair the texture needed for the hold. “Once you achieve this texture, you put the hair up in a ponytail..we braided some of the girls’ hair to get rid of the weight, especially if they had a lot of hair.” Then she put up the chignon with pins.

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Charlotte Ronson Fall 2009 Fashion Week Runway

The most surprising, fluid and elegant collection of the day, Charlotte Ronson dazzled the audience with her ethereal beauty, fluid chiffon blouses, structured trousers and punctuations of the bohemian. Occasionally surprising also were the plaid and peasant touches to a very eclectic collection. These pieces are completely wearable, poetic and eclectic at the same time. Bravo Charlotte!

The hair was pulled back tightly into a clean ponytail and the garnet/brown lipstick stood out on a pale canvas of a face.

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